Whenever my friends visit Tokyo for the first time, I send them to Tonki, which serves one of my favorite tonkatsu (pork cutlets) in Tokyo. The popular dish consists of a pork cutlet breaded in Japanese-style panko breadcrumbs and deep-fried until crispy and golden brown.
It may be old-fashioned, but Tonki is an institution in Tokyo. Since 1939, Tonki has served tonkatsu to many die-hard fans of the traditional Japanese dish, including locals and tourists like myself.
Many will debate whether Tonki or Maisen is better. I tend to side with Tonki, but I’m not the only one. Among the thousands of tonkatsu restaurants in Tokyo, none seem to do it as well as Tonki.
If you are looking for more information about Tokyo and Japan, I highly recommend you pick up a guidebook such as Lonely Planet Best of Tokyo 2020
Bright Interior of Tonki
From the outside, the restaurant looked dull. I wondered if I was at the right place on my first visit.
Once I passed inside through the sliding wooden doors, everything changed. The spacious room was without any decorations and extremely bright. The aroma of fried pork and oil hit me right away.
There were no tables on the first floor—just a single counter surrounding a vast and busy kitchen. It noticed locals quietly enjoying their meal and filling every seat at the counter.
Given how many people were inside, I was surprised by how quiet the restaurant was. The only sounds I heard were the shouts of workers greeting customers and the sound of oil bubbling in large circular vats.
People seemed to eat and move on, ensuring the wait was never too long.
Behind the counter was a line of seated customers waiting patiently for their turn to sit at the counter. My wait was about 20 minutes, but it was worth the wait.
Open Kitchen
The chefs, decked out in white from head to toe, moved around the kitchen effortlessly. Everyone had one job, and one job only, whether it was taking orders, frying the pork, or slicing cabbage. The wait seemed non-existent with the show going on in front of me.
On my visit, the one thing that stood out besides the food was an older gentleman whose job was to cut and plate each piece of pork. His job was vital to the restaurant’s success.
Using his sizeable razor-edged knife, the man, with his sharply curved back, bent over and meticulously cut each piece of pork placed in front of him. With his eyes focused on the pork, it was like nothing else in the world mattered.
The chef’s one job and the most important and senior role was slicing the pork. I wondered how many pieces of pork he had cut in his life. I assume the years of bending over and cutting have taken a toll on his back. He had my respect.
Tonki Menu
I ordered the Rohsu-Katsu Teishoku (1,900 yen or about $12.55) with a 160g (5.6oz) pork loin cutlet. On the side were pork miso soup, white rice, pickled vegetables, thinly sliced cabbage, a tomato wedge, and spicy yellow mustard.
After sitting at the bar, it took a good 10 or 15 minutes to receive my pork. But the wait was worth it, especially with a cold beer and the kitchen view. When it arrived, seeing the colorful plate of food in front of me was beautiful, like a work of culinary art.
After taking my first bite, I knew why Tonki was so popular. The pork had a thick, crunchy breading and was almost dark brown from being cooked in vats of hot oil. The tonkatsu served here was fried extra crispy. You will be disappointed if you prefer a lighter, fluffy crust.
Under the coating, there was a mixture of meat and fatty parts. After being fried longer than usual, the meat became less juicy and tender.
A layer of translucent fat complimented the meat. This fat was intense in flavor and melted in my mouth. The rich flavors of the fat reminded me of bacon. If fatty pieces of pork aren’t your thing, go for the leaner loin.
I can’t forget about the spicy yellow mustard. I love this stuff—it has a good kick of heat with the burn of wasabi. If this is too spicy for you, minimize the heat by mixing the mustard with katsu sauce found in bottles on the counter.
The katsu sauce was sweet and salty, almost like a BBQ sauce. Its sweetness and saltiness paired well with spicy yellow mustard.
Miso Soup and Sides
Generous pork pieces floated in the slightly salty yet light miso soup broth. Those who love pork will be pleased that the soup had more pork than tofu. And you guessed it, the pork was fatty, juicy, and packed with flavor that permeated into the broth.
The rice, pickled vegetables, and sliced cabbage initially seemed somewhat ordinary, but it paired perfectly with the tonkatsu.
I couldn’t stop eating the cabbage. I was like a child on Christmas morning when the worker came around with the large bowl of sliced cabbage.
Service at Tonki
From the moment I walked in and handed a menu, I felt welcomed, even though I was one of the only tourists.
Though my interaction with the busy workers was limited, everything ran smoothly like a well-oiled machine. Every worker had a specific job, which ensured quick, efficient service.
I loved how attentive the workers were to me. They repeatedly asked if I needed a refill on rice, miso soup, or cabbage—and I loved that cabbage.
Conclusion
I feel bad reviewing Tonki because it is off the beaten path for most tourists. I want to keep it for myself, but as The Travel Mentor, I must recommend great places to my readers.
Of all the restaurants in Tokyo I have visited in Japan, nothing compares to Tonki. I always recommend Tonki to my friends who are traveling to Tokyo.
Tonki may not serve the most refined, Top Chef-quality tonkatsu dish I have ever had. But there was something special about eating a homemade-style fried pork cutlet surrounded by locals. Therefore, I consider it one of my favorite tonkatsu in Tokyo.
The food, the kitchen, the workers, and the counter seating make me want to stop at Tonki each time I return to Japan. And I highly recommend it for your next visit to Tokyo.
Pros
- One of the best tonkatsu in Tokyo
- Delicious, crispy, tender, fatty, flavorful pork cutlet
- The show going on in the kitchen was enjoyable to watch, especially while waiting
- Packed with locals
- Accepted credit cards
Cons
- Always a wait for dinner
- Limited items on the menu
Hours
Wednesday - Monday: 4:00 PM - 9:00 PM
Tuesday: Closed
Address
1 Chome-1-2 Shimomeguro, Meguro, Tokyo 153-0064, Japan
GPS Coordinates: 35.633605,139.714312
Map
Last Updated on September 19, 2024
Can a party of 5 get a seat together for dinner?
Dan,
I do not believe reservations were accepted. With a group of 5, I wouldn’t expect the wait to be too long.